Learning how to hatch chicken eggs in an incubator is one of the most rewarding experiences on the homestead. Whether you’re starting your first flock or expanding an existing one, learning to hatch chicks in an incubator allows you to be part of the entire life cycle, from egg to chick.
If you don’t have a broody hen ready to take on the job, an incubator is a reliable and accessible way to hatch healthy chicks at home. The process itself takes about 21 days, but success depends on preparation, consistency, and understanding a few key factors.
This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to hatch chicken eggs successfully on your homestead.
How to Hatch Chicks in an Incubator | A Beginner’s Guide
What Is a Hatching Egg?
A hatching egg is a fertilized egg that has the potential to develop into a chick. This means a rooster must be present in the flock. Without a rooster, eggs will never hatch, no matter how long they’re incubated.
Hatching eggs can come from:
- Your own flock
- A neighbor or local farmer
- Online hatcheries or breeders
Freshness matters more than most beginners realize. The viability of fertile eggs begins to decline after about 7 days. For best results, aim to incubate eggs that are less than a week old.
Choosing the Right Breed to Hatch
The first step to hatch chicken eggs is to decide which breed or breeds you want to raise. With so many breeds of chickens available, this can take some research and thought.
Before you even set up your incubator, think about your goals. Are you focused on egg production, meat production, colorful eggs, or a mix of the three?
Many people run for the rare breeds because they are exciting, but they often come with a higher price tag and sometimes lower hatch rates. If you’re just getting started, a hardy, common breed can give you more consistent results.
Some people will sell mixed farm bred hatching eggs for a small fee. These are often not purebred chickens but can still be an excellent source of fresh eggs in the future. Mixed breeds can also give you some wonderful egg layers, such as Olive Eggers and Easter Eggers.
Setting Up Your Incubator The Right Way
When setting up the incubator, plan ahead. Get everything ready before setting the eggs into the machine. Know the type of incubator you have. Still air and circulated air incubators have different requirements.
We highly recommend Brinsea Incubator products.
Key Incubator Setup Steps:
- Clean the incubator thoroughly
Use a gentle, non-toxic cleaner and allow it to fully dry. - Run it empty for 24 hours
This ensures temperature and humidity levels stabilize. - Check your environment
Keep the incubator in a room with consistent temperature away from drafts, windows, or vents.
Ideal Incubation Conditions:
- Temperature: 99.5°F
- Humidity Level: 40–50% (days 1–17)
- Humidity Level: 60% (days 18-21)
Modern incubators often regulate these automatically, but it’s still important to monitor them daily.
How to Set the Eggs in the Incubator
Once your incubator is stable, it’s time to set your eggs.
Positioning the Eggs
Place unwashed eggs with the pointed end down. This helps the chick orient properly for hatching.
Marking the Eggs
Use a pencil to mark one side of each egg with an “X.” This simple trick helps you keep track of turning. You can also number them, label them with the breed name abbreviation, whatever suits your needs.
Turning the Eggs (Days 1-17)
Eggs need to be turned regularly during the incubation period to prevent the embryo from sticking to the shell.
- Turn eggs at least 2–3 times per day until day 18
- Always alternate sides evenly
- If your incubator has an automatic egg turner, this step is handled for you
Turning mimics what a broody hen naturally does in the nest and is critical for proper development .
Monitoring Development | Candling Eggs
Around 7–10 days of incubation, you can candle your eggs to check for a developing embryo. Candling simply means shining a light through the egg in a dark room.
At this point it should be clear that a chick (maybe you only see a dark mass) is growing in the egg. An egg that is not developing appears empty although you may be able to determine the presence of the egg yolk.
What You’ll See:
- Fertile egg: Dark mass with visible veins
- Infertile egg: Clear or only a yolk shadow
Removing non-developing eggs helps maintain a healthier incubation environment and prevents potential contamination.
The Final Days: Lockdown Period (Days 18–21)
Day 18 marks a major transition in the incubation process.
At this point, the baby chicks are almost completely developed and need to get into the correct position for hatching. The incubator goes into what is called “lock down”.
What Changes During Lockdown:
- Stop turning the eggs completely
- Increase humidity to 60–65%
- Avoid opening the incubator as much as possible
Humidity becomes especially important here. Too low, and the membranes can dry out and trap the chick (“shrink wrapping”). Too high, and the chick may struggle with excess moisture.
Increase humidity by adding a wet sponge or shallow cup of water with a chick guard cover over it (or fill one of the water wells/trays if your incubator has one). Make sure you keep it around 60-65% humidity by using a hygrometer.
Pipping and Hatching: What to Expect
From day 18 to 21, watch for signs of pipping. This is the first break in the egg made by the small egg tooth on the chicks beak. The chick may take a long break after pipping.
- Pipping: The first crack in the shell
- Zipping: The chick breaking around the shell to exit
Once a chick pips, it can take up to 24 hours (or more) to complete the hatching process. This waiting period can feel long, but it’s completely normal.
The Hard Truth About Helping
It’s incredibly tempting to help a chick hatch, but in most cases, you shouldn’t.
Chicks that seem to be struggling to hatch make it difficult to watch without helping. The risk we run if we attempt to help hatching chicks is that we can make matters worse. It is a tough call to make.
A chick that cannot hatch on its own may not be strong enough to survive long-term. While there are rare exceptions (like shrink-wrapped chicks), beginner homesteaders are usually better off letting nature take its course.
A shrink-wrapped chick can sometimes be helped by using a moist sponge to lubricate the membranes. However, the expert advice is often to not help hatch chicks that are struggling, or to wait until they haven’t hatched for 48 hours.
After the Hatch: Moving Chicks to the Brooder
Once chicks hatch, they’ll be wet, tired, and a little wobbly. Leave them in the incubator until they are fluffy, dry, active, and alert. This usually takes several hours.
Brooder Setup Basics:
Before hatch day, your chick brooder should already be ready:
- Temperature: 95–100°F for week one
- Clean bedding (pine shavings work well)
- Fresh water and chick starter feed
Each week, reduce the temperature slightly as chicks grow and feather out.
Chicks typically need 8–10 weeks before they can regulate their body temperature fully. Chilled chicks get sick and die quickly, so it is best to give them time to grow and acclimate to the weather slowly.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced homesteaders have bad hatch rates sometimes, but many issues are preventable.
1. Temperature Fluctuations
Even small swings can impact development. Stability is more important than perfection.
2. Incorrect Humidity
Too dry or too humid environments can both cause failed hatches.
3. Opening the Incubator Too Often
Especially during lockdown as this drops humidity quickly.
4. Poor Egg Quality
Old, dirty, or improperly stored eggs reduce hatch rates significantly. Eggs should be unwashed, but not coated in dirt or manure.
5. Overhandling Eggs
Keep egg handling minimal and gentle.
Is Incubating Eggs Worth It?
Absolutely! But hatching your own chicks isn’t just about saving money.
Hatching your own chicks allows you to:
- Build a flock tailored to your needs
- Teach your kids about life cycles and responsibility
- Become more self-sufficient
There’s something special about watching new chicks hatch that never gets old, no matter how many times you do it.
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Raising Chickens on the Homestead
Chickens are the gateway livestock on any homestead! Learn more about how to care for backyard chickens!
- The Basics of Raising Chickens
- Cardboard Chicken Coop Bedding
- Chicken Breed Egg Colors
- 10 Ways to Help Your Chickens Beat the Heat
- How to Treat Common Chicken Illnesses
- How Do You Keep Chickens Warm?
- 6 Reasons Every Homestead Needs a Rooster
- Reasons to Raise Pastured Livestock
Originally written by Janet Garman in 2017- Updated by Homesteaders of America in 2026
